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Purdue Photography Club wiki
photography

Basics

Exposure, camera settings, dynamic range, and the first technical foundations to learn.

Camera settings without the soup.

Exposure is the first technical idea that makes a camera feel less mysterious.

This page covers the exposure triangle, stops of light, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, dynamic range, noise, raw files, and the camera modes that help you control all of it without getting overwhelmed.

It is dense by design. Read it once, go shoot, then come back when the settings start to feel connected.

A bright orange beam of light breaking through clouds over water and mountains.
Photo by @adrisangui

The foundation

The Exposure Triangle

Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are the three settings photographers talk about most because they all change how bright the final image becomes. Your phone and camera can adjust them automatically, but learning what each one does gives you creative control.

Think of exposure as a balance. If one setting lets in less light, another setting usually needs to give some back unless you intentionally want a darker image.

+1 stop doubles the light -1 stop halves the light Same exposure can come from different settings
Exposure triangle diagram showing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Aperture

How Wide the Lens Opens

Aperture is the size of the opening inside the lens. It is written as an f-number, such as f/1.4, f/2.8, f/5.6, or f/11. The confusing part is that a smaller f-number means a larger physical opening.

A large opening lets in more light and creates a shallower depth of field. That means less of the scene is in focus, which is why portraits often have soft, blurry backgrounds. A smaller opening lets in less light but keeps more of the scene sharp.

f/1.4 - f/2.8 Wide / fast

More light, more background blur, easier low-light shooting.

f/8 - f/11 Stopped down

Less light, deeper focus, useful for landscapes and context.

Six lens openings labeled from f/1.4 to f/8.0.
Source: Wikipedia
Portrait with a soft, blurry background caused by shallow depth of field.
Source: Julia Trotti

What Aperture Changes

  • Exposure: wider apertures let in more light.
  • Depth of field: wider apertures make the focused zone thinner.
  • Lens size and price: very fast lenses are harder to design, so they are often bigger, heavier, and more expensive.

Use wider apertures when you need light or want separation. Stop down when you need more of the scene to stay sharp.

Diagram comparing depth of field from a wide aperture and a narrow aperture.
Source: Vanilla Video

Shutter speed

How Long the Sensor Sees

Shutter speed is measured in seconds or fractions of a second. It controls how long the camera collects light from the scene. A shutter speed of 1/500s lets in twice as much light as 1/1000s because the sensor is exposed for twice as long.

It also changes how motion looks. Fast shutter speeds freeze movement. Slow shutter speeds let movement smear into the frame.

Fast 1/1000s+

Sports, wildlife, fast action, and sharp handheld moments.

Slow 1/30s or longer

Intentional motion blur, moving water, light trails, and abstraction.

Flying birds rendered as soft motion blur against a blue background.
Slow shutter speeds can make motion feel fluid instead of frozen. Source: @natgeoyourshot
Portrait seen through soft motion blur and glassy distortion.
Photo by @teo_crawford

Try it on purpose

Blur Is Not Always a Mistake

Sharpness is useful, but blur can be expressive. If you are photographing concerts, street scenes, cars, water, or people moving through light, try a slower shutter speed and see what kind of rhythm appears.

ISO

Brightness After the Sensor

ISO is a holdover term from film speed. In digital photography, it behaves like gain: the camera amplifies the signal from the sensor so the image becomes brighter.

Raising ISO is useful when you cannot open the aperture more or slow the shutter speed without ruining the shot. The tradeoff is noise, especially in darker areas.

Lower ISO Cleaner files

Best when you already have enough light.

Higher ISO More noise

Useful when the shot matters more than a perfectly clean file.

Comparison image showing ISO 200 with less noise and ISO 3200 with more noise.
Source: Photography Life

Dynamic range and noise

Why Cameras Handle Harsh Light Differently

Dynamic range is the distance between the darkest and brightest parts of a scene before detail starts getting lost. It is measured in stops. A camera with more dynamic range gives you more room to recover shadows and highlights later.

This is one reason larger dedicated cameras often handle difficult light better than phones, even though phones have improved dramatically through larger sensors and computational processing.

Chart comparing photographic dynamic range across ISO settings for an iPhone 14 Pro Max and Canon EOS R5.
Source: Photons to Photos
Coastal image with visible noise in dark underexposed shadows.
Underexposed shadows can become noisy when lifted in editing.
Raw vs. JPG

One of the best ways to squeeze more out of your camera is to shoot in Raw, which you can usually enable in the camera's image-quality settings. Many cameras let you choose JPEG, Raw, or Raw + JPEG.

Rendered image files such as JPG, PNG, and HEIF are already processed. JPEGs are compressed, lossy files that mostly contain the finished look the camera creates when you open the image in a viewer. Raw files keep more sensor information, which gives you more room to adjust exposure, recover shadow detail, tame bright highlights, and make color decisions later in Lightroom or another editor. If you use an iPhone that supports it, you can also shoot Apple ProRAW.

The tradeoff is that Raw files can look flatter before editing because they bypass much of the camera's internal JPEG color processing, and they are usually much larger. Shoot Raw if you like to edit, or JPEG if you prefer to leave your photos mostly untouched. It is also perfectly fine to edit JPEGs; you can easily get by without Raw unless you need heavier post-processing in high dynamic range scenes.

Raw is not magic, though. In extreme contrast, you still need to decide whether highlights, shadows, or a middle exposure matter most. For a deeper walkthrough, watch Raw vs. JPEG.

Putting it together

Many Settings Can Create the Same Brightness

Suppose a scene looks properly exposed at f/2.8, 1/1000s, ISO 200. You can keep the same overall brightness with different tradeoffs:

Starting point f/2.8 - 1/1000s - ISO 200

Wide aperture, fast shutter, clean ISO.

Same exposure f/4 - 1/500s - ISO 200

One stop less aperture light, one stop more shutter time.

Same exposure f/11 - 1/1000s - ISO 3200

Much deeper focus, but ISO rises to compensate.

Aperture and shutter speed change the creative character of the photo. ISO mostly helps you reach the exposure when the other two settings are already constrained.

Camera modes

You Do Not Need Full Manual

Many cameras have P, A, S, and M on the mode dial. These stand for Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and Manual. They decide which settings you control and which settings the camera meters automatically.

A great beginner setup is Aperture Priority with Auto ISO. You choose the aperture for the look you want, and the camera handles shutter speed and ISO within the limits you set.

Mode You Control Camera Controls
Program Exposure compensation Aperture and shutter speed
Aperture Priority Aperture Shutter speed
Shutter Priority Shutter speed Aperture
Manual Aperture and shutter speed Nothing, unless Auto ISO is enabled

The technical details are here to serve the photo, not swallow the hobby. Take what helps, then go make pictures. Next, read Anatomy of a Camera to learn what the body, lens, sensor, viewfinder, and controls actually do.